Geodesic
Numerical modelling of the breaking waves
Matematičeskoe modelirovanie, Tome 8 (1996) no. 8, pp. 37-41.

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Three-wave equation for the Fourier amplitudes of wave harmonics was used for modelling of the breaking waves. For the waves breaking the gravity-capillary band, surface tension and the depth of the fluid were regarded. Waves acquired strictly asymmetric form in the direction of their movement (“saw” form) with the groups of parasitic capillary waves on the crests and on the troughs. The spectrum was constructed after long time of the wave evolution for those wave modes which have the acceleration more than $0.5g$. It was revealed that such spectrum in the wavenumber space hase the law of decreasing of its high wavenumber part as $k^{-3}$. This is consistent with the experimental spatial spectra of the waves of limited configuration. 
@article{MM_1996_8_8_a2,
     author = {V. A. Kalmyikov},
     title = {Numerical modelling of the breaking waves},
     journal = {Matemati\v{c}eskoe modelirovanie},
     pages = {37--41},
     publisher = {mathdoc},
     volume = {8},
     number = {8},
     year = {1996},
     language = {ru},
     url = {http://geodesic.mathdoc.fr/item/MM_1996_8_8_a2/}
}
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V. A. Kalmyikov. Numerical modelling of the breaking waves. Matematičeskoe modelirovanie, Tome 8 (1996) no. 8, pp. 37-41. http://geodesic.mathdoc.fr/item/MM_1996_8_8_a2/